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Wednesday, June 17, 2015

ITALY!!: "The Rape...", Trevi and Pantheon...

I must admit how proud I am of what we have seen in such a short amount of time here in Italy and how well-behaved Hannah and Mason have been. It made me laugh the other day when Mason asked how many naked people we were going to see that day, real and statues -- so funny!!

That morning we visited the Spanish Steps. Built in 1723-1725 they linked the church to the square and became a place for painters and artists. The glorious marble steps are smooth and round. A gorgeous square full of shopping and people. From the steps we walked to the Villa Borghese Gardens to another museum.

We have visited two Museums (other than the Vatican museum), the Roman National museum and the Borghese Galleria. These museums tell amazingly overwhelming stories. We have seen countless statues but the one I was very interested to see was "The Rape of Proserpina". Now, to be corrected, in Roman times the word "rape" actually meant kidnapping. So the statue is of a kidnapping, not an actual rape.

"The Rape of Proserpina" is arguably one of the most well-done statues of all time; done by Gian Lorenzo Bernini at the age of 23. The story goes like this: Proserpina (aka Persephone) was the daughter of Zeus and Demeter, the Goddess of Agriculture -- corn, grain and the harvest. Proserpina was kidnapped by Pluto (aka Hades, ruler of the Underworld) with the help of his three-headed dog, Cerberus (guard of the gates of hell). The statue depicts the violent kidnapping -- her hand pressing against his head, a tear on her cheek and his hands pawing into her flesh (an amazing feat in marble sculpting). Demeter looks everywhere for her daughter and falls into depression, when she does winter occurs for the first time and there is no harvest. Zeus finds out that Proserpina is in Hades and tells her that if she doesn't eat any of the food there, he will save her. When (she thinks) no one is looking she eats six pomegranate seeds. Zeus frees her but commits her to Hades for six months out of the year, one for every seed. Every time thereafter when Proserpina goes to Hades, Fall and Winter fall upon the land.

"The Rape of Proserpina" is held in the Borghese Galleria which used to be part of a private estate. This estate is huge and comparable to Central Park in New York. There are many buildings, roads, statues, fountains, lakes and crypts. A more memorable moment we had was renting a four-seater bike that Mike and I peddled throughout the estate (almost dumped it at one point). The kids even got to play on a playground and in the grass (I know that sounds typical but Rome doesn't have many green spaces similar to our little town in Indo, so this was special).

Next, we visited the famous Trevi Fountain. Another highly anticipated Rome asset and to my and Hannah's dismay it was CLOSED!! Our hearts sank. We tried to take it in but truly were devastated. There was a small fountain piece with water in it were you can throw a coin a say a wish, so that is what Hannah and Mason did. From there we walked to the Pantheon. The area around the Trevi to the Pantheon was our favorite place of Rome -- perfect example of Roman culture, shops, and people.

The Pantheon, a temple built around 126 AD, was dedicated to the Roman pagan gods. Not sure exactly how it was used but the most notable architecture is the giant hole in the top. Mike and I speculate that it acts as a sundial. Buried within this beautiful building are the first two Kings of Rome, their wives and the famous painter Raphael and his fiancĂ©e. Mason really got into taking photos, may have a photog on our hands!

Our days in Rome have come to an end. A trip of a lifetime that will be ingrained in our souls forever. We are sad to leave but accepting of our next adventure, Naples Italy.

As always, to be continued...
     






















Tuesday, June 16, 2015

ITALY!!: The Vatican, Sistine Chapel and St. Peter's Basilica...

I will do my best to describe what may have been the most amazing experience of my life, the Vatican City.  

We started our adventure to the Vatican like most Italians start their day, the Metro -- a crazy underground subway that carries people throughout Rome. A great system but chaotic, fast-paced and hot. From the monetary and time efficient ride we walked to the huge walls that surround the amazing city. There were people EVERYWHERE!! Drivers were honking, people walking, people staring, and people waiting. We made it to our skip-the-line tour guide (a must do when you do things like this or you will be waiting for HOURS!!!) (thank you, Yvonne) and got into the Vatican museum first.

Our tour guide is a fanatic. He was a sweet guy, thin and boney, dressed in a faded blue suit with a fedora hat and he knew his stuff -- from Belgium he has lived in Rome for more than 26 years. He shared with us the beginning stories of the Popes and the Vatican. What surprised me is that the Popes weren't necessarily the "peace keepers" they are today. Instead they incited wars and took land. They could also determine your fate after death, heaven or hell. Their position changed around 1500 AD and they became more of what they are today.

The museum was fantastic. Housing one the world’s largest collection of Renaissance art from statues, sarcophaguses, panels, painting, tapestries, to stained-glass windows. 4 miles of displays – it was so overwhelming!! So much history and information and I wish I knew more and definitely didn’t have enough time to take it all in.

After the museum we went into the Sistine Chapel. A holy place where you cannot speak nor take video or photos as it is:

"The Sistine Chapel is the place that, for each Pope, holds the memory of a special day in his life. ... Precisely here, in this sacred space, the Cardinals gather, awaiting the manifestation of the will of Christ with regard to the person of the Successor of St Peter [...]. And here, in a spirit of obedience to Christ and trusting in his Mother, I accepted the election that sprung from the Conclave, declaring [...] my readiness to serve the Church. Thus therefore the Sistine Chapel became once again before the whole Catholic Community the place of the action of the Holy Spirit that nominates the Bishops in the Church, and nominates especially he who must be the Bishop of Rome and the Successor of Peter". Credit: http://mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/CSN/CSN_Storia.html

It was such a moving experience to be in such a sacred place and I was able to pray. The more notable point is that the ceiling of the Sistine was painted by Michaelangelo – the famous “The Creation of Adam” was breath taking.

Lastly, we went to St. Peter’s Basilica “there is no doubt it is the richest and grandest church on earth. To call it vast is like calling Einstein smart” – Rick Steves. It is hard to describe how I felt when I walked into the basilica. I couldn’t move, I couldn’t breathe, I was in shock and awe. Absolutely one of the most amazing places I have ever seen and its spirit captured me. I wanted to cry. I wanted to fall to the floor, stretch out my arms and absorb every piece of it.

Within the detailed, high columned ceilings are several chapels, alters, monuments, tombs, tabernacles, statues of Saints and confession. The item I most desperately wanted to see was Michaelangelo’s Pieta which is in the first chapel. “The Madonna’s youthful, sweet face expresses her submission to destiny, as she cradles the dead Christ’s limp body in her lap. Yet the rich drapery of her dress and veil suggest an extraordinary physical and moral strength, which contrasts with the delicate, 15th century features. This is the only work signed by the artist, whose name appears on the belt”. Credit: http://www.vaticanstate.va/content/vaticanstate/en/monumenti/basilica-di-s-pietro/interno.paginate.1.html

I have often thought about this beautiful piece and now I was seeing it in the flesh. It was a fantastic moment. We wandered the vastness and ended up at the Grottos. Underneath the basilica is the Vatican Grottos. The grottos are the burials of kings, queens and popes and are given holy tribute. Just beautiful.

After many hours, we were exhausted and tired. It was a long day. We said goodbye to our tour guide, who commented on how good Hannah and Mason were. We exited the massive square of the Vatican. It was a powerful, magical and fulfilling experience to say the least.

Amongst the site-seeing we have enjoyed walking through the narrow cobbled streets, eating delicious Italian cuisine and taking-in the Roman architecture that is spread out throughout the city.

We only have a few more days and plan to visit the Villa Borghese Gardens where another highly anticipated statue resides.
As always, to be continued...